Buffalo, N.Y., has lent its name to that favorite of pub appetizers, wings. It's also known for its distinctive pizzas. But just because this is the South doesn't mean diners can't enjoy the same famous flavors right here at home.

The owners of Galla's have brought the casual cuisine of their hometown to
Dunwoody, recently opening at 1155 Mt. Vernon Highway. Since 2000, the business has been popular in East Cobb, and three years, they ventured into Chamblee. For this new location, they're not messing with a good thing: The favorites are all in place, starting with wings in 17 flavors, including Oriental sesame, honey barbecue and hot teriyaki.

Buffalo natives will also recognize the "weck" rolls - short for Kimmelwecks, soft, doughy beds for the beef sandwich, topped with horseradish and natural juices.

But the biggest draw is the pizza menu, an extensive list of 23 combinations sold by the pie and slice. The run-away favorites, though, are the "chicken in the grass," a blend of chicken, spinach and four cheeses, and the steak and 3-cheese, piled high with sirloin slices, onions, mushrooms, peppers, Swiss, American and mozzarella.

What sets Galla's apart, said manager Jenny Collier, is the company's dedication to making as much from scratch as possible.

"Our meats are sliced here," she said. "The marinara sauce is fresh; the meatballs are made every day."

Another feature that has fed Galla's success is its Friday night fish-fry. For this one evening, from 4 to 10 p.m., forget the spicy Italian slant and dig into fried Haddock filets, served with fries, coleslaw and tarter sauce. The $9.99 deal is a popular family meal.

Galla's also gets involved with the community, making the restaurants more than just a place to dine.

"We're looking to sponsor various school programs, charity events and community activities," said Collier.

The Dunwoody Galla's has a  modest wine list and a selection of draft and bottled beers. A dessert line-up includes New York-style cheesecake, cannolis and fried dough. The cozy space at the end of a strip shopping center features high-top tables, booths and outdoor seating.

THE BASICS:
Galla's Pizza
Address: 1155 Mt. Vernon Highway, Atlanta, 30338
Web: www.gallaspizza.com
Phone: 770-913-9399
Hours: 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Mondays-Thursdays; 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Fridays-Saturdays; noon-10 p.m. Sundays.